In this video I talk about my tool bag and what I most commonly use whenever I work on repairing typewriters. Please read the description for a clarification of a matter in the video that I worry gets misunderstood here. Also, I'm Norwegian and we Norwegians like to spice up our language with some foul words here and there, which a couple of times slips through here. If you don't like that sort of thing: Sorry!
ABOUT THE USE OF CHEMICALS: In the video I mention a bit about how the repairmen and mechanics in the past used a lot of harsh chemicals and that we know whether they are really harmful for our health or not through empirical evidence, and I kind of sound like I'm brushing it off and saying we know there's no harm in it. This is not what I mean.
It is important to make it clear that some of the chemicals they used in the past was so toxic and bad that even back then they had to have a special license to be allowed to import it. We also know that solvents like mineral spirits are a carcinogenic substance. What I meant to say in the video was more that you're not going to immediately develop cancer or worse by exposing yourself to mineral spirits and oils a couple of times. I'm merely advocating that any time you can avoid any chemicals by using gloves, the benefits of wearing them wildly outweigh the benefits of not wearing them.
ABOUT RENAISSANCE WAX: I mention Renaissance Wax (RW) in the video and say there is more in the description. RW is a product that is made first and foremost for _preservation_, but because of that it can therefore also be a good last step in restoration. It is a non-acidic product that is proven to not discolour objects over time. Some protective waxes can contain substances that are acidic or base in nature (or which becomes so over time), and certain items may over time discolour as a result (depending on what the item is of course).
The can states it is a micro-crystalline polish wax. Some see 'micro-crystalline' and interpret that as that the wax contains really tiny crystals that could make it work the same way a car polish does, but 'micro-crystalline wax' is a name for a wax substance produced by de-oiling petrolatum. If it had contained actual micro crystals to finely wear down and polish surfaces (the same way car polish does) it would have been wildly discouraged as something to use in museums.
The product is a 'polish' in the sense that it is very good cleaning agent. It will dissolve grime, fat and other nastiness and make it come off other surfaces very easily. It also leaves a super thin film on the surface that will serve as protection in the longer run. This is why it is a good last step in rust treatment. Remove the rust by other means, then finally use RW to both clean the surface and leave a protective film to prevent (or at least discourage) farther rust.
If you have a typewriter that used to have a glossy finish that now has faded, and you want to make it truly shine again, you can get improved results by using Renaissance Wax, but to get it really nice and shiny again, you will either need to work it with layering many layers of wax designed to work without abrasion, or you will need to bite the bullet and actually use abrasive polish that will remove the top-most nanometer of paint.
PLEASE NOTE: In the typewriter community there are often debates on the restoration vs preservation aspect of the hobby. Some feel a rusted typewriter must remain rusty because the rust is part of that typewriter's journey through history, and removing that will remove that history. Others feel typewriters should be restored to what they looked like when new because that state demonstrates the look and design of what the original manufacturer intended, and so shows us what was truly the style of its time and gives us better insight to the culture of the past.
Whatever is the case for you, be aware that abrasive paint polish _does_ remove paint, however small the amount.
Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
https://uppbeat.io/t/jonny-boyle/bright-life
License code: WHZVZDVFTYEMVABO
ABOUT THE USE OF CHEMICALS: In the video I mention a bit about how the repairmen and mechanics in the past used a lot of harsh chemicals and that we know whether they are really harmful for our health or not through empirical evidence, and I kind of sound like I'm brushing it off and saying we know there's no harm in it. This is not what I mean.
It is important to make it clear that some of the chemicals they used in the past was so toxic and bad that even back then they had to have a special license to be allowed to import it. We also know that solvents like mineral spirits are a carcinogenic substance. What I meant to say in the video was more that you're not going to immediately develop cancer or worse by exposing yourself to mineral spirits and oils a couple of times. I'm merely advocating that any time you can avoid any chemicals by using gloves, the benefits of wearing them wildly outweigh the benefits of not wearing them.
ABOUT RENAISSANCE WAX: I mention Renaissance Wax (RW) in the video and say there is more in the description. RW is a product that is made first and foremost for _preservation_, but because of that it can therefore also be a good last step in restoration. It is a non-acidic product that is proven to not discolour objects over time. Some protective waxes can contain substances that are acidic or base in nature (or which becomes so over time), and certain items may over time discolour as a result (depending on what the item is of course).
The can states it is a micro-crystalline polish wax. Some see 'micro-crystalline' and interpret that as that the wax contains really tiny crystals that could make it work the same way a car polish does, but 'micro-crystalline wax' is a name for a wax substance produced by de-oiling petrolatum. If it had contained actual micro crystals to finely wear down and polish surfaces (the same way car polish does) it would have been wildly discouraged as something to use in museums.
The product is a 'polish' in the sense that it is very good cleaning agent. It will dissolve grime, fat and other nastiness and make it come off other surfaces very easily. It also leaves a super thin film on the surface that will serve as protection in the longer run. This is why it is a good last step in rust treatment. Remove the rust by other means, then finally use RW to both clean the surface and leave a protective film to prevent (or at least discourage) farther rust.
If you have a typewriter that used to have a glossy finish that now has faded, and you want to make it truly shine again, you can get improved results by using Renaissance Wax, but to get it really nice and shiny again, you will either need to work it with layering many layers of wax designed to work without abrasion, or you will need to bite the bullet and actually use abrasive polish that will remove the top-most nanometer of paint.
PLEASE NOTE: In the typewriter community there are often debates on the restoration vs preservation aspect of the hobby. Some feel a rusted typewriter must remain rusty because the rust is part of that typewriter's journey through history, and removing that will remove that history. Others feel typewriters should be restored to what they looked like when new because that state demonstrates the look and design of what the original manufacturer intended, and so shows us what was truly the style of its time and gives us better insight to the culture of the past.
Whatever is the case for you, be aware that abrasive paint polish _does_ remove paint, however small the amount.
Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
https://uppbeat.io/t/jonny-boyle/bright-life
License code: WHZVZDVFTYEMVABO
- Category
- NORWAY
- Tags
- typewriter, tools, repair
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